Around and about in Iceland
During the summer of 2003 (at mid-summer in fact) we visited Iceland, driving some three quarters of the way clockwise around Road No.1 from Akureyri to Reykjavik. Some notes on our trip can be read below. Place names have, where necessary, been anglicised.
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Himalayan meconopsis in the Akureyri
Botanical Gardens
The spectactular Godafoss
Roadside lupins near Husavik
Emergency shelter on the way to Husavik
View of Husavik
View of Husavik
Husavik church
Husavik church
Evening at Myvatn
Gullfoss
Egilsstadir
...and evening near Egilsstadir
A relatively quiet mud pool
The solfatara area around Namafjall
A steam vent
The old French hospital on a S.E. fjord
Take your skidoos
A turf-roofed church at Hof
Icebergs at Jokulsarlon
Icebergs at Jokulsarlon
The church at Vik
The headland and natural arch of Dyrholaey
Thingvellir - the parting of the continents
Thingvellir - the site of the first Icelandic
Parliament
Thingvellir church
Thingvellir church interior
Skalholt Cathedral
The area around the Geysers
Thar she blows!
The dome of super-heated
water just about to burst
Friday 20th June
We took the 9.10pm Icelandair flight from Heathrow to Reykjavik. The plane was a Boeing 757 and full, our seats were towards the rear with
windows, so we were off last on arrival. During the flight we were given a meal of cold ham. The sun set just as we
left London but soon could be seen again above the horizon as we flew over Manchester and Northern
Ireland. Then cloud obscured the view over the sea until we could see the coast of Iceland as we lost
height. Being midsummer the sun goes below the horizon for only about two hours plus in southern
Iceland and it does not get dark. We landed at 11pm GMT, passed through customs and then a minibus took
us to our guesthouse near the centre of Reykjavik for the night. Almost an hour long ride through a
rocky landscape, no trees, little grass, but patches of blue lupins in some places, a few low rise buildings
scattered around until we reached the suburban area of the capital.
Saturday 21st June, Midsummer Day
After some 4/5 hours sleep in pleasant rooms we had breakfast from a selection of cereals, yogurt,
cheese, ham, fish, bread and jam, tea and coffee for about twenty guests. Before our taxi took us the local
airport we walked to the City Hall which is on a lake, saw hooper swans, mallard, eider, scaup, greylag
geese. We walked around and happened upon a Yann Arthus-Bertrand photographic exhibition in the main square, "Earth from
Above". Some hundred pictures were on display but we only managed to see some in the time available. A short taxi ride took us to the airport for the plane to Akureyri, a Fokker 50; a flight of less than one hour, cloudy some of the way but one could
see the Langjokull glacier and the farmlands. We picked up our car, located the supermarket and stocked up with lunch items
which we ate in the car park. We first found the Botanical Gardens, established 1912, where there are many
plants and flowers from all over the world. There seemed to be a compression of the seasons as there were tulips
in full bloom with summer flowers, Himalayan meconopsis (large blue flowers) aquilegias of many
colours, poppies, dahlias etc. We drove on to our next overnight stop at Myvatn stopping on the way at the
Godafoss horseshoe falls where Iceland's conversion to Christianity from the Norse Gods is
commemorated. When we arrived there were very few people so we were able to take photos and admire
the views but soon afterwards five coaches of French tourists turned up and there were large crowds. We then drove on to Myvatn over the
rough road (even Road number 1 is not tarmac all the way). We saw the pseudocraters at Skutustadir on the
south side of the lake where subsurface water trapped beneath hot lava explodes in steam eruptions, forming
these round craters. Then on to Reykjahlid where we stayed in a cottage belonging to the Edda Hotel
which held ten, double rooms with kitchen facilities, two shower rooms and a small sitting room. We bought
pizzas at a nearby supermarket for our meal that evening, then walked round the scatttered settlement to look at the
local cafe. Two Iceland horses were seen trotting along with their special gait. The midges were terrible so we
dressed up and put on the deterrents. Spectacular scenery around the lake, Hverfjall volcanic crater and
Vundbelgar mountain. Being northern Iceland the sun is below the horizon for about two hours only at mid-summer and
it does not get dark, no more than our evening light. However, thick curtains do keep out most of the
light.
Sunday 20th June
Breakfast was served at a nearby house which was furnished with beautiful wooden furniture and
fittings, with wall hangings and cushions. We had a breakfast similar to the day before. Several other
people were there. We kept our shoes on but realised we should leave them at the door! We were staying at
Myvatn for two nights so that we could drive to Husavik and go on a whale watching trip. The road,
which at times was rough, went over the higher lava sand desert of Holasandur where lupins were seen in profusion. As we went lower down we came to the hot spring area of
Hveravellir where steam vents warm up greenhouses and the dwellings, even an indoor swimming pool.
We rejoined the main road No. 85 at Laxamyri which is a very large farm with many horses and various other
farms with sheep, cattle and horses. We went on through Husavik to the layby for Husavikurfjell but it was
too far to walk up to this high viewpoint and get back in time for the boat trip se went up a short way
looking at the wild flowers, lupins, violas, poppies etc., and also being almost mobbed by the arctic terns
because we were near their nests on the rocky ground. There were other small birds similar to stonechats
and skylarks around. We had our picnic lunch in the layby overlooking the bay of Skjallamdi and the snow
capped mountains on the other side. Went back into Husavik for the four hour whale watching trip. It was
a lovely sunny day although windy and chilly on the sea so we wrapped up well. The boat was fairly full
but there was enough space to sit or stand as we wished. Alan went up in the large "crows nest", I sat in the prow to
keep below the wind. It was quite a time before we reached the area where the whales and dolphins might be
seen but there was a commentary in English given by a young woman who made it all interesting. The
presence of seabirds indicates the position of krill in the water and therefore the likelihood of the whales.
As we neared the cliffs on the other side of the bay we were lucky to see the tail fins of minke whales as
they dived down. We were told that they surface to breath four times, the last time curving their backs
sharply to go deep, so we stood there watching and counting, although one cannot see much of the
creatureës body. We also saw a school of dolphins for quite a time as they stay near the surface and their
bodies are more visible. They also come nearer to the boats. In total we saw some eight whales and about
fourteen dolphins. On the way back we were given cinnamon buns and hot chocolate. Back in the town
we had a look around and went inside the church built in 1907. Husavik is a centre of the whaling
industry although at present Iceland does not catch any in agreement with the world wide regulations although this is likely to change soon. The
whale watching trips and tourist industry help the economy to an extent although Iceland wants to start
hunting again.
We drove back to Reykjahid and went the short way to Bjarnarflag where the geothermal power station
runs on the superheated water springs. The small lagoon of warm water is an opaque blue so we paddled
and then returned to have an evening meal at a nearby cafe. The sun sets about 11.30pm and a faint daylight stays all
night so we returned to the blue lagoon with our swimming things and had a dip watching the sun go down
behind the mountain, very pleasant. The water was warm but the air cold so we kept well down in the
waist high water. The fine mud at the bottom is dark grey and said to be good for the skin, fortunately it
washes off easily. As the day had been windy the midges were not so troublesome.
Monday 23rd June
On to Egilsstadir today so, after breakfast along the road, (we took off our shoes this time) we set off early,
stopping at the geothermal pool to look at the rocks on the right hand side of the road. Here steam comes
out of various fissures and "lava bread" is baked in underground ovens although we did not manage to see
these. We went to have a look at the spot where the hot water comes out into the lagoon at 200C and
cools gradually, the swimming area is roped off from this. Then, on over the pass to the eastern side of
Krafla, the tufa buff coloured mountain, where sulphur seeps from the ground in places. This area is on the
mid-Atlantic ridge and the gap in the ridge shows where the two halves are widening. The Namafjall mud
pools have walkways around them, we could see into them, some are just bubbling mud, others spurting
up blue grey matter and there are steam cairns as well. Then along Road No 1 to the old Hrosaborg crater
where the 4WD road only starts to cross to the south. Shortly after we turned off on the road north to the
Dettifoss waterfall, the highest in Iceland at 40 m. This road is mainly dirt and the dry ground meant that
one kept well back from the few vehicles we met because of the dust cloud, then past the flat area where
the Jokulsa river widens out before it reaches the waterfalls. We walked down to the canyon to get
closer and looked at the various flowers and different volcanic rocks such as basalt columns, ropey
lava etc. We had our sandwiches at the top looking at the scenery before returning along the road to
rejoin Road No.1. Maintenance work on the road seems to consist of loading up sand from nearby and tipping it
out over the potholes.
On over the mountains and sandy desert, where there was little vegetation except near rivers, the road
being part dirt, part tarmac with a new road under construction in one section. We drove down a long
valley with a short stop at a small waterfall for a coffee and then on to Egilsstadir. Our stop for the night
was an old 1903 farmhouse hotel where we had en-suite rooms, the only ones during the trip. We went into
the small spread out town to check on somewhere for a meal, then back for a drink by the lake in the
evening sunlight. Went to Cafe Nielsen and enjoyed a good meal, a Viking
meal of smoked lamb, various fish including dried shark and several breads.
Tuesday 24th June
Today we were heading for Hofn and decided to go round the eastern fiords rather than staying on Road
No. 1 over the higher mountain pass. It was a sunny morning so we had good views of the mountains and
the sea when we reached it again. The coast road took us round several fiords until we reached
Stodvarfijordur where we visited the stone museum. Petra Sveinsdottir has collected many rocks and
minerals in the locality over the years and has arranged them in her garden with some in the house which
are labelled. We stopped for our sandwiches just up the road but it was now cloudy and cool. We picked
up rocks at the side of the road and then went on round the head of the fjiord with good views from across
the water at this small fishing village. Round one more fiord and then we rejoined Road No. 1 at
Breiddalsvik. We drove on and stopped at a beach for some more rocks. It started to rain so views across the
flatter ground, rivers and lagoons were gone and by the time we reached Hofn it was very wet. Our place
for the night was at Arnanes, just beyond the town and was like a Swiss chalet, lovely rooms and a small
restaurant including the owner's art gallery. The meal was once again very good.
Wednesday 25th June
Today was the day for the skidoos and the icebergs so we were up early for breakfast and soon on our
way. It was raining with low cloud so still no views. Arrived at the departure point for the jeeps to take us
up to the Vatnajokull glacier which takes about 3/4 hour. There were good views of the glacier's old
valley as it has receded so much over the last seventy years; at one time it had reached the sea. At the top we
dressed in one piece suits and helmets at the cafe and got on to the two man skidoos with instructions on
driving them and to keep our feet on the rests etc. Set off follow my leader style up the snowy plateau,
again we were in low cloud so no views of the mountain tops around us. To turn the vehicle we had to
lean over to the way we wished to go, Alan and I managed to lean too far and fell sidewards, no damage
except to pride perhaps. It was also necessary to keep up a reasonable speed. The way was over slopes
and hollows so once or twice we lost sight of the one in front, just hoped they had not gone another way!
The ride out and back was for about half an hour, interesting but a pity about the weather. Back to the
jeeps and the ride down the narrow twisting track alongside the glacier tongue and the high fells before
dropping to sea level again.
Next stop Jokulsarlon with a break for our sandwiches on the short journey. Here the Breidamerkurjokull
glacier almost reaches the sea and as pieces break off they pass into the lagoon where the icebergs
gradually melt in the brackish water. An amphibious vehicle takes groups along the track and then into
the water to go round the icebergs keeping well away from them as 90% of the ice is below the water.
They can also turn over when the weight of exposed ice is more than that of the ice below. The colours
are amazing, blues of various depths with streaks of grey and black dust from volcanic eruptions. We were
shown a lump of ice picked up by the accompanying rescue boat which fell as snow about 1600 years
ago and also ate a small piece of the transparent stuff. Back to the starting point and up on the higher
ground to take yet more photos. before we walked under the road bridge to the mouth of the lagoon. The
sea was rough and the remnants of icebergs were on the beach and the edge of the sea gradually breaking
up completely. The ground here is very rocky and the arctic terns regard it all as good nesting sites.
However they do not like people so if anyone is too near they'll be mobbed. A cyclist along the road had
a large number following him.
Crossing the desert of Breidamerkursandur we went on to Hof, our destination for the night where we
stayed in an annexe to what had been the farmhouse. After the evening meal which included cod we
walked around the settlement where there were various turf buildings including the church which dated
from 1884. Choir practice was in progress so we sat and listened for a while before looking at the graves,
which were mounds of turf, perhaps the ground is too hard to go downwards. Also noticed the headstones
give the name and dates only so one did not know the relationship patterns because of the use of 'son of'
or 'daughter of' rather than surnames. The evening was very windy with squally rain at times.
Thursday 26th June
Breakfast was in the farmhouse where there was a group of some forty French tourists also staying
overnight and then off for the drive to Laugarvatn, about 200 miles. Various glacier snouts could be seen from
the road across the sand desert of Skeidarsandur. In these sand desert areas one cannot drive if the wind
whips up the sandstorms and traffic lights show when it is not safe. The flat plains are covered in glacier
debris with little vegetation and subject to flooding from the glaciers. In 1996 various bridges were swept
away when volcanic activity released the ice and water beneath them. The coastal plains near the feet of
the mountains have been cultivated, modern buildings replacing the now derelict turf houses. We stopped
and looked at the lava flow at Eldhraun (fire lava) where it is covered in bright green moss, a contrast of
red/brown pumice and green. We also stopped at the gravel ridge of Laufskalavarda, where small cairns
have been built up to bring good luck to those who pass by for the first time. We piled up a few stones
ourselves.
Across Myrdalssandur to Vik, a town of some 300 people, a school, a swimming pool, a clinic and a
county magistrate plus the factory shop to spend some money on t-shirts and other small items. In this
section of the journey the mountains are closer to the sea, and include the headland of Dyrholaey, a
nature reserve and nesting site for sea birds on the 600 feet high cliffs. It is some miles on from Vik and we
decided to have our lunch there, the track winding up to the top looked somewhat daunting but seeing a
minibus and motorhome going up we went as well, selecting a suitable low gear on the rough road. It was well worth it
because the views along the coast in each direction were great and the headland itself includes an
archway at sea level large enough for a very small plane to pass. The sound of seabirds, the sight of their
nesting perches on the vertical cliffs, fulmars, puffins, guillemots and others were a good background for
our walk to the lighthouse and sandwiches on the cliff top. On to Skogar and walked to the 60m. high
waterfall where the spray is tremendous; one can get very close to its foot and also climb up the cliff to
where the river flows over.
Finally on to Laugarvatn where we were to stay for two nights in Hotel Edda, a tertiary college with
accommodation in the college bedrooms. As there was a conference of some 120 women attending a
Nordic Craft meeting we went down the road to the main Edda Hotel for our evening meal. A good one
with views from the restaurant window over the lake and to the mountains, including Hekla, a dormant volcano, snowtopped
in the distance.
Friday 27th June
Today we took in the sights of the "Golden Circle". After the usual breakfast in the crowded dining room
we set off for Geysir which was not that far. It is the area of hot springs, fumaroles, mud pots and geysers,
the last being named from this place, which is again on the mid-Atlantic ridge. Being quite early in the
day the coach parties had not yet arrived so we walked over the site paths and were able to get near to the
interesting places and take photos. The original Geysir is now dormant but Strokkur is really spectacular. It
erupts about every 8/10 minutes, surface water which has gone down to about sixty feet is heated into
steam and then comes up the vent through the pool of water collected on the surface. The area is roped
off but one can get very near. Small amounts of steam escape through the water which bubbles up and
down, then this becomes a dome through which the main body of steam escapes rising rapidly very high
in the air once or sometimes two or three times. The hot water runs away downhill. One needs to keep
the camera to the eye as the escapes are very brief, the comments of the waiting spectators were amusing.
There are also other vents in the ground with sulphur stains and the smell of bad eggs and mud pots of
various sizes. We walked around the visitor centre shop but found things like books rather expensive,
postcards varied between 50 and 70 Kr (48p/67p) in different places.
Then on to Gulfoss waterfall, a double horseshoe cascade which drops into a deep canyon. There were
good viewing points and we were able to get very close to the top of the fall - and get damp in the
process. There were lots of wild flowers on the side of the path down because of the spray. The day was
sunny, clear and windy so we had good views of the distant mountains and glaciers. The visitors' centre
had good pictures and explanations of the area and we ate our lunch just outside. Then on to Skalholt
which has been a centre of religion for a thousand years having a bishop until about 1800. On the way
we took a look at Faxi where the river Tungufjlot and the small falls have been repaired to provide a fish
ladder. The rivers in this area have been modified to prevent the flooding which occurred. At Skalholt we
went in the cathedral which dates from 1963, although a very isolated place there is an educational centre
attached.
Back to Road No. 35 and on the way we stopped at Kerid, a 6000 year old volcanic crater, just as one
imagines it should be, steep conical sides, and water at the bottom. The final place of interest in the circular tour was Thingvellir, the site of the Althing, the old Parliament
of Iceland and also the largest lake in the country. This area is also on the mid-Atlantic ridge and the
various fissures in the landscape show where the earth is rising and splitting, one side going west and the
other going east. We stopped at one point and walked down into the Almannagja ravine where this is very
obvious, the east side is lower than the west as the earth is sinking, the actual widening being at the rate of
1cm per year. Then back to the road as we realised it was not the best place to view the area and soon at
the visitor centre we could look out from the viewing platform over the old church, the old farm buildings
and the site of the Althing below. We drove back the way we had come and went there visiting the little
church and looking at the archaelogical excavations of the old booths used during the annual meeting of
the Althing which began in about 930AD. Here the River Oxara nearly reaches the Thingvellir lake which
flows out at the other end through the River Sog to reach the coast after Selfoss.
We returned to Laugurvatn over the dry sand desert which divides Thingvellirvatn from Laugurvatn
stopping to look at the view towards Hekla and the other mountains and then had our evening meal at the
Edda Hotel down the road.
Saturday 28th June
After breakfast at the hotel we had a quick look around the exhibition of arts and crafts as it seems that the
conference was for women from the Nordic countries involved in such activities, ceramics, woodcraft,
painting, needlecraft. The day was cloudy and soon it was raining so, when we reached Hveragerdi, we
had a quick look at the church and then walked round the 'Eden' garden centre with its hothouse plants
such as bananas and pawpaw. The town is again on a geothermal site and the various greenhouses are
heated naturally. We bought postcards and souvenirs and Thompson and Morgan
seeds imported from UK! On to Reyjkavik and up to the Perlan Centre, where we ate our lunch by the car
and then went in to have a drink up in the coffee bar which gave us views through the rain of the city. The
revolving restaurant on the top floor was not open but the artificial geyser which spouts up through the
four floors was working. It is an impressive building with an exhibition and concert area, with statues and
a 'History of Iceland' film show. It was still raining so we drove to the Kringlan shopping centre, an indoor
arcade on three floors with lots of small shops. On to the Isafod guesthouse once more were we sorted ourselves out. We went round the various restaurants and had a good meal in Cafe Victor. Back to base and a last bottle of wine.
Sunday 29th June
Our last morning before catching the plane back home at 4pm. After breakfast we packed the car and
then walked round the old town. Spent some time looking at the exhibition 'The Earth from Above' again,
some hundred aerial photos. in the main square. Then, up the hill through the side streets, to the new
cathedral of Hallgrimsskirkja which was eventually completed in the 1990s. It is a striking landmark with
a towering west tower somewhat like a Viking boat and inside is light and airy, tall columns rising to the
roof. The bells strike each quarter hour and if one goes up the tower one is beneath them, we just listened
down below at 11am. Outside stands the statue of Leifur Eriksson who discovered 'Vinland', a present
from USA in 1974 for the 1100 anniversary of the founding of Iceland. We walked back down through the
old streets and then drove to the Blue Lagoon to have a look, having found the warm pool at the
beginning of the holiday we did not want to go in the water here. Again, formed from the cooling water of
the power station , it has the same opaque blue water and grey mud which is said to be good for the body,
and is a large complex of carparks, restaurant, shop, and pool area which was very busy. We walked
down the path which passes through the high lava flow on each side. It was still raining so we had a quick
look round and then back to the car for the short drive to the airport plus a diversion to fill up with petrol. The airport was busy as some 300 American golfers were returning
home complete with large golf bags so checking in took some time but we had enough time to eat our last
sandwiches and spend our last few Kroner before boarding the aircraft for Heathrow and home.
